Home Improvement Expert Danny Lipford

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Repairing a Bathtub Drain

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Bathtub drain.

Our bathtub no longer holds water. The drain itself is slightly corroded around the edges so it does not sit tightly in the tub. How do I replace the drain hardware? -Barbara

Hi Barbara,

If the drain basket itself needs replacing, it may require access to the underside or back end of the tub. To replace, unscrew the existing tub drain basket by inserting a pair of pliers into the basket and turning or using a special tub drain removal wrench made for that purpose.

If the drain pipe and threads are in good shape, a new drain flange can then be screwed into it. Be sure to apply a ring of plumber’s putty around the drain hole in the tub bottom to seal the drain basket to the bottom of the tub.

To see how to remove and replace the internal drain closing mechanism, check out our article Cleaning a Tub Drain.

Good luck with your project,

Danny



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2 Comments on “Repairing a Bathtub Drain”

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  1. Chris Crawford Says:
    January 14th, 2009 at 11:54 am

    I have 1/4″ paneling in a bedroom with 2 windows and 1 closet plus the entry door. I want to replace the paneling with sheet rock but the new sheet rock is 3/8″ or 1/2″-Lowes/Home Depot. Is there a 1/4″ sheet rock, if so does it come in 12′ lengths? The room can be done with only 8 sheets of 4′ X 12′. If I use a different thickness how is the best way to make the frame for the windows/doors thicker without replacing them completely? Or what do you suggest?
    Thanks

  2. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    January 15th, 2009 at 8:51 am

    Hi Chris,
    1/4″ drywall is available (I’ve only seen it in 8′ lenghts), but it’s usually used only in multiple layers (for curves) or to skin over existing wall surfaces. It is not strong enough for walls when used alone, unless you plan to leave your existing paneling up and put it on top of it. 1/2″ drywall is considered the standard thickness for walls on 16″ centers. You would probably need to remove the door and window facings then add a shim to the frames to make them flush with the new wall surface before replacing the facing boards.

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