Installing crown molding usually involves making precise mitered and coped cuts in the corners, followed by careful placement of each piece of crown molding so they align properly. However, with the introduction of premade corner blocks, the installation of crown molding couldn’t be easier.
Corner blocks are decorative molding pieces with squared ends that are attached to inside and outside corners. This allows simple square cuts to be made on the crown molding to fill the spaces between the blocks. This means that there’s no need for any odd-shaped coping cuts or special fits on mitered cuts.
Watch the video above to find out more.
Crown Molding Installation Preparation
Before hitting the store, you’ll want to accurately measure the rooms you will treat. Draw a quick sketch and jot down the length of each wall. When you visit your local home and garden retailer, ask for single, long pieces of molding tailored and cut to each wall length. Otherwise, get the longest pieces you’re able to find.
Begin with unpainted molding. All painting, if necessary, should be done after the molding is installed.
Materials
- Tape measure
- Painter’s tape
- Crown molding
- Coping saw
- Miter saw
- Level
- Nail gun or hammer
- Finishing nails
- Caulk gun
- Paintable caulk
- Ladder
How To Install Crown Molding
- Use chalk to mark the wall where the bottom edge of your molding will sit (chalk is much easier to remove than pencil).
- Cut the ends of your molding to fit into the corners using your miter saw. Set the saw to a 45-degree angle and completely flush your molding against the saw’s fence. You may want to give this a few practice runs on scrap pieces before committing to a cut on one of your main moldings.
- If you’re still unsatisfied with your corners, pre-made corner blocks are a great last resort. They hide imperfections and can give your molding an added decorative flair.
- Cope the joint using a coping saw. Coping is a handy technique where you shape the ends of your molding so that each fits together perfectly. This curved cut will give you an ultra-tight fit that won’t leave gaps between sections of your crown molding. You’ll use this technique if you’re fitting smaller pieces together along a single wall length or installing molding in your room’s corners. Once you’ve completed the cut, fit the pieces together to ensure they’re seamless.
- Now you’re ready to put the molding up. Really shove it into the corners so it’s nice and snug, and then nail it into place with the finishing nails. If you still have gaps, this is where your handy caulk gun will come to the rescue. Load it with paintable caulk (latex is better than silicone) and fill the holes.
Crown Molding Materials and Costs
Want to learn more about the different types of crown molding before installing it in your home? Read the guide below for the costs and installation requirements of five different crown molding materials.
$ = least expensive
$$$$ = most expensive
Wood ($$$)
This original crown molding material has been used for hundreds of years, and for good reason. Naturally finished wood adds real warmth and sumptuousness to a room, but it’s quite expensive, and if you live in a humid region, it may contract and expand with the temperature. Cutting wood also requires a bit more skill than other materials, so it’s best installed by someone who has already tried their hand at carpentry.
MDF ($)
Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is an affordable alternative to wood. You can buy it veneered or stained, and if you’re not keen on the natural wood finish, just paint it yourself. If your existing wall trim is painted, consider going with MDF as it’ll be much easier to paint. Softer than wood, MDF is more prone to denting, so be sure to handle it with care.
Plaster ($$$)
The benefit of using plaster molding is that it can be cast into virtually any design you can think of, from rich floral patterns to Baroque or Rococo motifs. The downside is that it can be pricey, as molds are made to order. Plaster is also quite heavy, so installation will require a pro or at least two amateurs.
Polyurethane ($)
Like MDF, this is another low-cost option that can last many years with the added bonus of being bug-proof. Say goodbye to termites, woodworm, or pesky beetles. Polyurethane is a good dupe for plaster—you can get similar casts but at a fraction of the cost. However, like MDF, it does dent easily, so be mindful when you’re putting up polyurethane molding.
PVC ($)
Made from plastic (polyvinyl chloride), PVC is an excellent choice for rooms exposed to humidity, like bathrooms and kitchens. PVC does have its limitations, though—it only comes in simple motifs and painting it is an absolute must. But at an average of $1–$3 per foot, who minds doing a little painting?
