Sharp tools make all the difference when tackling pruning chores. Plants recover more quickly from clean cuts, and your muscles will also thank you.

    Even quality pruning shears and hedge clippers need sharpening from time to time to maintain their edge, and it makes a great project on a cold or rainy day.

    Read more to find out how to sharpen your pruning tools properly and safely.


    Types of Pruning Tools

    Before you start sharpening, take a good look at your pruning tools. Pay attention to the bevel of the blades. This bevel is what makes a tool sharp. Blades are factory ground to a precise angle that’s just right for each specific tool.

    When sharpening a blade, focus on maintaining the existing bevel. Don’t try to change the angle or the shape of the blade, or it won’t cut properly after sharpening.

    How you sharpen pruning tools depends on the type of blade:

    • Hedge clippers: Usually consist of two blades that move against each other like scissors. Often the blades are beveled on one side and flat on the other. You must sharpen both blades on hedge trimmers.
    • Grass clippers: They also have two blades, but clippers may be beveled on both sides of each blade.
    • Anvil pruning shears: This type has one blade that moves against a hard, flat plate. Instead of a scissoring action, they cut by pinching. You need to sharpen only one blade, but it may have a bevel on both sides.
    • Bypass loppers or pruning shears: These shears also have one blade, but it moves past a hard, flat edge in a scissoring motion. The blade likely has a bevel on just one side.

    Identifying your tool’s blade type and beveling is crucial for good results when sharpening.


    Types of Sharpening Tools

    If you have the proper sharpening tools, putting a sharp edge on your clippers and shears only takes a few minutes. You have some options when choosing sharpening tools:

    While power grinders remove a lot of metal quickly, they can easily overheat the steel. This causes the metal to soften and the blade to dull quickly. Though necessary for major reshaping, grinders require practice and a gentle touch to prevent damaging tools.

    Files remove steel quickly without overheating. But they can leave a rough edge, making them perfect for hoes, shovels, lawn mower blades, and other tools that don’t require a razor-sharp edge. For best results on pruning tools, choose a medium or fine mill file with a “bastard cut.”

    Available in grits ranging from coarse (120 grit) to extra fine (1000 or higher grit). Stones may be made from natural stone (Arkansas, Washita) or manmade materials (silicon carbide, aluminum oxide). As the name implies, oilstones use honing oil as a lubricant, while Japanese waterstones require water.

    You can use diamond plates and ceramic stones dry or with water. While removing less steel than a file, the finer grits of honing stones produce an extremely sharp edge, making them perfect for tools that require an extra sharp edge.

    Selecting the right sharpening tools for your pruning tools is important for producing a clean, sharp edge.


    Sharpening Process for Pruning Tools

    Sharpening a pruning tool is more complex than sharpening a knife. Pruning tools have multiple pieces, and they require disassembly before sharpening starts. Here is a step-by-step method for sharpening pruning tools.

    A simple bolt or a couple of screws holds most pruning tools together. You don’t have to disassemble them fully, but separating the blades makes them easier to clean and sharpen.

    Locate any fasteners or retaining clips holding the tool together. Use the appropriate screwdriver or wrench to detach the pieces for sharpening.

    Thoroughly scrub away all dirt, sap, and rust with soap and water first. Then, use mineral spirits to dissolve any remaining resin or stains. Finally, dry the tool completely.

    More tips on cleaning and removing rust from garden tools can be found in our article, How to Clean, Sharpen, and Maintain Garden Tools.

    Proper cleaning allows you to sharpen the blade on clean steel without old debris getting in the way.

    For best results, secure the blade in a sturdy vise or clamp. If you don’t have access to a workshop vise, brace the shears carefully in your lap or on a countertop. Wrap the blade in a rag to protect your hands while holding the tool steady.

    Don’t cut yourself while the tool is clamped or held steady for sharpening.

    For very dull or nicked edges, start with a mill file or coarse sharpening stone. If the blade is already in decent shape, use a medium or fine sharpening stone instead.

    If using a waterstone, lubricate it with water first. For an oilstone, apply a light coat of honing oil. Lay the stone flat against the beveled edge of the blade.

    Using steady, even strokes, gently push the stone or file toward the sharp edge of the blade. Continue until you’ve sharpened the entire cutting length of the blade. Don’t overdo it at first — a few light strokes should be all it takes.

    Applying too much pressure or using a coarse grit stone for too long can damage the blade’s beveled edge.

    After sharpening one side, periodically place the stone or file flat against the opposite flat side of the blade. Make a gentle stroke away from the edge to remove any burr that has formed.

    You don’t want to reshape the flat side of the blade, just carefully remove the burr formed on the sharp edge from sharpening.

    Once the blade is sharp, switch to a finer grit stone. Repeat the sharpening process to hone a very sharp edge. Apply gradually less and less pressure with each finer grit.

    Watch the edge closely as you hone it. The freshly ground steel will become shiny. You want the cutting edge to become uniformly shiny along its entire length. This ensures you’re maintaining the correct bevel angle.

    If the blade is only getting shiny in spots, slightly adjust the angle of the stone. Incorrect sharpening causes the bevel to become rounded instead of flat. If the bevel is rounded over, the tool won’t cut correctly.

    Use a clean, dry rag to carefully wipe off any metal filings after sharpening. Avoid cutting yourself on the now-sharp blade.

    After cleaning, apply a light coat of oil to the blade, springs, and other moving parts to prevent rust from forming.

    With the blade freshly sharpened, put your pruning shears back together according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Give them a test cut on a scrap piece of wood or a thick stem.

    Further touch up the edge as needed until your pruners produce a smooth, easy cut. Hang or store the sharpened tools in a dry place to protect them.


    Maintaining a Keen Edge

    With proper care, you can extend the time between sharpenings for your pruning tools. Here are some tips:

    • Wipe blades clean after each use to prevent sap and dirt buildup.
    • Avoid cutting large woody stems because the tool wasn’t designed for that, and it can nick the cutting edge.
    • Store tools out of sunlight and moisture to prevent corrosion.
    • Lubricate pivot points with light oil periodically.
    • Periodically check the blade for dull spots or nicks and sharpen as needed.
    • Sharpening your pruners once a year before heavy pruning season hits will keep them operating smoothly.

    So, Is It Worth Sharpening Pruning Tools Yourself?

    For most homeowners, sharpening hand pruners and loppers yourself is worth the effort. The materials like sharpening stones and files are inexpensive compared to replacement blades. With a little practice, you can touch up the edges on your existing tools.

    The satisfaction of making those renewably razored cuts through branches is rewarding. You will also save money by not having to buy expensive replacement pruners.

    However, for heavy-duty electric or hydraulic loppers, it’s often worth paying a professional service for sharpening. Specialized blades and mechanics require tools and expertise the average homeowner doesn’t have access to.


    FAQs About Pruning Tool Sharpening

    How do I know when my pruners need sharpening?

    Your pruners need sharpening if branches require extra effort to cut, leaves fray, or cuts appear ragged or mashed. Regularly honing the edge prevents these symptoms from occurring.


    Can I just use a regular file to sharpen pruners?

    You can use a mill file in a pinch, but the coarse teeth leave a rough edge. Investing in sharpening stones produces a much keener edge that lasts longer.


    What's the best angle to sharpen hand pruner blades?

    Most quality bypass pruner blades are beveled at approximately 30 to 40 degrees. Refer to your tool’s manual or carefully examine the existing bevel before sharpening.


    Should lawn mower blades be sharpened differently than hand pruners?

    Yes. Lawn mower blades have a bevel of 22 to 28 degrees, much sharper than pruner blades. Use a grinder and gentle touch to avoid excess heat when sharpening mower blades.


    How often should I sharpen my pruning tools?

    Light-use pruning shears may need sharpening every two to three years. With heavy use during pruning season, sharpening beforehand and once mid-season produces the best cuts.


    Editorial Contributors
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    Coty Perry

    Expert Writer & Reviewer

    Coty Perry is a lawn and garden writer for Today’s Homeowner. He focuses on providing homeowners with actionable tips that relate to the “Average Joe” who is looking to achieve a healthier and greener lawn. When he isn’t writing he can almost always be found coaching youth football or on some trail in Pennsylvania in search of the next greatest fishing hole.

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    Sabrina Lopez

    Editor

    Sabrina Lopez is a senior editor for Today’s Homeowner with over 7 years of writing and editing experience in digital media. She has reviewed content across categories that matter to homeowners, including HVAC services, home renovations, lawn and garden care, products for the home, and insurance services. When she’s not reviewing articles to make sure they are helpful, accessible, and engaging for homeowners like herself, Sabrina enjoys spending time with her family and their two parrots.

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