DIY Gutter Cleaner

By: Danny Lipford

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No one likes cleaning gutters, especially the part where you scoop them out by hand. What if you could just spray them out with the garden hose without climbing up on the roof? Well, you can.

You’ll need a couple of pieces of PVC pipe, two 90 degree PVC elbows, an end cap, PVC glue, and a threaded adapter to match up with your garden hose.

From one piece cut two pieces about 12″ in length. Glue them into an elbow to form an “L”. Now use the other elbow to attach the “L” to the full piece of pipe.

The threaded hose adapter goes on the other end of this piece. Drill one or two small holes in the cap before you glue it over the remaining open end.

Now you can spray out your gutters without setting foot on a ladder.



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  • Official Comment:

    Thomas Boni Says:
    September 6th, 2018 at 9:11 am

    Hi, Rose!
    The Soil Science Society of America has some great information on this topic: “You can add amendments to soil anytime, but the best times for working it into an existing garden are in the spring before planting, and in the fall when putting the garden to bed,” it states.

    That said, for tailored advice, we recommend inviting a Master Gardener to your home to inspect the area.
    Master gardeners train on a range of topics so they can provide advice, at no charge, for people in their area.

    Good luck!

  • Rose Ann Rook Says:
    September 4th, 2018 at 3:17 pm

    I had a reputable local nursery plant a juniper tree early Spring 2018. They do guarantee it for 2 years. I live in the Ozarks and have very poorly draining soil, not red, but grey and heavy, with big red rocks from the owners decades ago. Water just sits on top of the soil or runs off it. I don’t know if they did any soil amendments when they planted the tree, but there is a “brim” around the base. The soil compacts and has run-off when it rains heavily, and dries to like concrete when dry. I noticed inner branches turning brown, called them, and they said it was probably due to heavy rain and heavy soil. Should we get the soil amended, and can we do it ourselves if the nursery won’t?

  • Carola Dryden Says:
    September 24th, 2016 at 7:51 am

    How can I add soil amendment to trees that are already planted and some roots close to the surface. I have clay soil. I am afraid of digging around the trees because I might damage the roots. My trees also seem to be hit every year with brown spots that look like rust. I need to find a way to make them healthier.

  • Jim paknoosh Says:
    April 13th, 2016 at 6:28 pm

    Did learn a lot reading about soil amendment. I also have the same problem of hard clay which is very difficult to dig out and some times mixed with hard rocks big and small. I am going to redig around old fruit trees and use a better soil to improve my fruit trees. I do appereciate Suzanne Kyle comments. I do everything to save and improve my trees.

  • Suzanne Kyle zone 3 Says:
    June 30th, 2015 at 2:03 am

    We have terrible clay soil with embedded crumbled brick from the previous owners. I too planted a serviceberry tree a couple of years ago the way you should not do. Just like others posting here I was not sure what to do. But I had to do something because the serviceberry tree was not doing as well as it should. So I decided to amend the soil around the serviceberry tree in sections about one month apart. I have now done about 2/3 the way around the tree with another 1/3 left which I will do in a month’s time.

    When I started digging it was unbelievable how bad the soil was past the old hole I originally dug. It was like cement and not a single worm anywhere. I took the soil right out up to the drip line of the tree, hoping that I won’t damage too many roots but close enough to minimize the heavy clay belt around the tree. I replaced it with 1/3 plain top soil, 1/3 potting soil and 1/3 composted sheep manure. Into this mixture I added back some of the clay soil I had removed. Perhaps not as much as this article suggests but we’ll see. I can always work in a bit more.

    So I think if the soil is really bad that perhaps removing/amending soil in stages with time in between for rest might be a reasonable way to go? There’s risk for sure, but if the soil is really bad, then there’s an even bigger risk by doing nothing. It comes down to a judgement call. I am no expert by any stretch, but this is my 2-cent’s worth on this topic.

  • Donna Says:
    May 27th, 2015 at 1:55 pm

    I have the same problem as Allen, above, only it’s with a rose bush. I’ve already replaced a bush that died … it’s in a spot the homeowner insists on using for a rose bush, and I want to make it work any way I can. What’s the damage control for a plant that’s already in a hole full of ammended soil sitting in the middle of a desert of clay?? Dig it up? Dig ceramic or gypsum in slowly? Work on the surrounding soil? Help!!

  • Allen Says:
    November 3rd, 2014 at 3:57 pm

    I read the article” How to Amend Soil Around Shrubs and Garden Plants” and realized that I planted a pear tree by removing the heavy clay in my yard and replacing it with Miracle Grow garden soil earlier this year, the exact way this article said NOT to. The tree is currently very healthy but I am now afraid I have doomed my great tree for a terrible future. My knee jerk reaction would be to dig up the tree again and do it right, but I that would probably just make the situation worse. Is there a way to fix this “bathtub effect” problem and save my tree?

  • Rose Behrens Says:
    April 7th, 2012 at 8:31 pm

    I live in Pueblo West Co. and the soil here is very poor, some clay some shale and I want to amend it, I bought some bags of top soil and I also want to add some horse manure but Im not sure in what order to do that. I’ve already dug out about 8 -10 inches of the bad soil and now need to know which to add first……the top soil or the manure. Thank you for any help you can offer.

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DIY Gutter Cleaner