How-To Videos

How to Fill Grooves in Paneling Before Painting

By: Danny Lipford
Smoothing out joint compound in paneling grooves with a drywall knife.

Filling the grooves in paneling before painting for a smooth surface.

To fill the grooves and paint paneling:

  1. Sand the paneling lightly to dull the gloss.
  2. Wipe any sanding dust off with a damp cloth.
  3. Fill the grooves in the paneling grooves with joint compound.
  4. Allow the joint compound to dry.
  5. Apply additional coats of joint compound, if needed.
  6. Sand the paneling with 100-grit sandpaper until the joint compound is smooth and flush with the paneling.
  7. Wipe any sanding dust off with a damp cloth.
  8. Prime the paneling with a shellac-based stain blocking primer.
  9. Apply two coats of wall paint, using a 3/4″ nap roller to add texture.

Watch this video to find out more.

Further Information

Video Transcript

Danny Lipford: First of all, use a little drywall mud, this is the same joint compound that they use to finish drywall. And an old drywall guy showed me a pretty cool trick here.

If you want to speed up the drying process, then put regular joint compound there. Then you can use this, which we call fast mud or twenty minute mud. Just mix a little in there. The fast mud is a little hard to sand sometimes, but if you mix just a little bit in with it, it’ll speed it up. But you still can sand the surface smooth later on. Sometimes you have to add just a little bit of water to it depending. But this looks like it’s shaping up pretty good.

All right, after you mix it up well, then basically what you want to do is to fill the grooves in. You don’t want to put too much on the surface of the paneling, you just want to fill those grooves up so that it’ll dry. Sand it a little bit, then it’ll be time for the primer.

Boy, we were really lucky here in that the grooves in the paneling were not very deep, so one coat of joint compound, nice and smooth. But if you have deeper grooves in your paneling, you’ll need at least two coats to really surface it out well.

But then, after everything is nice and dry, time to grab the sanding pole again. Just really sand everything, really pay attention to all of the sanding, you can see how well it comes off. And you really don’t have to sand all of the excess drywall off. You just want to get everything nice and smooth.

Then another wipe down with a damp rag before we prime.


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26 Comments on “How to Fill Grooves in Paneling Before Painting”

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  • Official Comment:

    Thomas Boni Says:
    April 9th, 2019 at 9:29 am

    Hi, Jackie!
    Knowing the right sandpaper you need for a job is super important.
    Here’s a crash course that will help:
    Thanks for your question!

  • Jackie Says:
    April 5th, 2019 at 8:36 pm

    Thanks for posting this! Just one question – what grit sandpaper do you use to “lightly sand” the wall before applying the joint compound? The 100 grit like you suggest to use after?

  • Lyne Says:
    February 27th, 2019 at 12:31 pm

    Could I do the same thing to hide the grooves on my ceramic wall?

  • Official Comment:

    Thomas Boni Says:
    March 4th, 2019 at 10:01 am

    Just for clarification, Drywall Joint Compound is the thing to use for filling in those grooves.
    When it comes to paint and primer, check out the Low VOC versions. Volatile Organic Compounds, or VOCs, produce odors and can be dangerous in large doses.
    Here’s more information on this topic:
    Good luck!

  • Official Comment:

    Thomas Boni Says:
    March 4th, 2019 at 9:21 am

    Hi, Taiya!
    To paint paneling, sand lightly, clean and prime with stain-blocking primer (oil or latex).
    To fill the grooves, get Drywall Joint Compound and apply to the grooves with a 6-inch drywall knife.
    Press down firmly to make it flush with surrounding paneling, then sand it smooth (use a sanding pole or sanding block to make it flat).
    Finally, you’re ready to paint.
    Good luck!

  • Taiya Warren Says:
    February 25th, 2019 at 10:34 am

    My house is full of the icky brown panel as well. It’s driving me nuts, I’ve lived in trailers most of my life and mostly delt with panel. Granted sometimes I painted but I’m literally living in my own home and it feels like a trailer. I want my house to look nice like the walls are drywall and new trim. Went to my local Menards to check out spackling compound and when I asked what kind I should use was told to use caulk cause the spackling compound is for drywall. Had to walk away before I opened my mouth and spat out something unnecessary. So the compound they have is called red devil but one is supposed to be safe smell wise and the other isn’t. Since I have a two year old in the house I’m thinking of the scent safe one over the other but I’m not really sure. Any advice for this first time home repair girl.

  • Official Comment:

    Thomas Boni Says:
    December 20th, 2018 at 8:53 am

    Hi, Lauren,
    The answer depends on a number of factors. For instance, how much paneling is there? And what is the ultimate goal?
    If your paneling is in such bad shape (and there’s plenty of paneling), you may decide that filling and sanding is too much work to tackle, and in that case, it may be better to cover the paneling with drywall. (It would certainly be faster!)
    Here’s more information on that:
    Good luck!

  • Lauren Says:
    December 20th, 2018 at 8:38 am

    I have 75 year old paneling in my house that is now splintering. Like, I can run may hand down the wall and sometimes bits with come off.
    Would this work to fix that (and I would paint over) or do I just need to take all the paneling down?

  • kue ulang tahun bandung Says:
    October 17th, 2018 at 8:45 pm

    Actually when someone doesn’t be aware of after that
    its up to other people thjat they will assist, so here
    it occurs.

  • Official Comment:

    Thomas Boni Says:
    August 31st, 2018 at 2:39 pm

    Hi, Angie!
    Many people prefer flat paint because it hides flaws well. When light does not reflect much on the topcoat, you’re less likely to notice imperfections.
    At the end of the day, choosing the right paint sheen is a matter of personal preference.
    Good luck!

  • Angie Says:
    August 29th, 2018 at 7:01 pm

    Is it best to use flat paint, or is eggshell ok. Which works best?

  • Official Comment:

    thomas Says:
    February 26th, 2018 at 11:33 am

    Hi, Kim,
    Here’s more information about this topic:
    Give it a read and let us know how things work out.
    Thanks for your question.

  • Kim Says:
    February 24th, 2018 at 1:14 pm

    We are interested in doing this. We have painted over our paneling for years. A contractor suggested filling in the gaps with caulk first, then fill with dry wall mud, sand, prime and paint.
    What I am concerned about is cracking, and expansion. BUT more than anything, I am worried about hammering a nail into it to try and hang pictures.
    Mr. Danny, can you please speak to this for me.?


  • Will romaine Says:
    February 4th, 2018 at 9:17 am

    That will take a lot of sanding to get that process smooth to avoid seeing the mud lines on your process. I would suggest cleaning the walls first and nailing the paneling to make sure its attached properly and there is no movement at the seams. Then use a 90 sandable drywall mixture on first coat with a narrow flexible blade. Sand when dry and then a top coat with drywall mud using a wider blade. Sponging the edges of the new coat to smooth out. Sand again after drying. Or you can fill the joints with 90 and cover with a wall paper that is made just for the purpose of covering paneling to avoid all the extra work and ensure and the work is done with very good results. Not sure how much texture you will really get out of a 3/4 nap roller on these smooth walls but for many it will become a real mess trying to avoid major splatter and paint lines. 1/2 inch nap would be a better suggestion with avoiding over working the roller too much before wetting it again.

  • denise Says:
    January 28th, 2018 at 10:48 am

    You make it look so darn easy! My house is full of this hideous wood paneling. I actually did fill in the grooves and paint the entire wall going up my stairwell, but the filler that was recommended to me (Durham’s Water Putty) was NOT easy to work with and it has ended up cracking!! So now it almost looks even worse than the dang wood paneling was to begin with! However, I’m really keen on this drywall compound that you are using. It smooths on so quickly!! And, holy cow, I need that sanding pole! And a wider smoothing knife. Watching this makes me feel like tackling this project is actually doable. That drywall compound is the clincher for me. Thanks for this information!

  • trudy lewis Says:
    January 19th, 2018 at 4:45 pm

    this was very helpful, thank you very much.

  • Linda Easton Says:
    November 19th, 2017 at 5:32 am

    I redid my kitchen countertop with a kit I got through Montgomery ward. There are other colors, but I ordered black. My counter looks brand new and looks like marble countertop.

  • Angel SanchezWalker Says:
    October 25th, 2017 at 2:36 pm

    Unfortunately someone had done exactly this to a beautiful cabin with Aspen walls and then painted them white. How do we remove all of this from the walls ? We have an electric sander for drywall and it’s still taking forever.

  • Gina Cardenas Says:
    October 10th, 2017 at 1:41 pm

    Would love to know the paint color used on walls. Thank you!

  • Diane Says:
    September 23rd, 2017 at 11:07 pm

    What does “MH” stand for? How long does the drywall compound last on wood paneling that has already been painted? Can anyone reading this relay any experience with how well it lasts?

  • Amber Gardner Says:
    July 15th, 2017 at 12:06 pm

    UNFORTUNATELY, my paneling was painted with semi-gloss before the grooves were filled in. Got some instructions for that?! Same thing? Just dry wall it, sand it a bit and paint??

  • Gwen Richmond Says:
    July 10th, 2017 at 9:37 am

    I’m have trouble trying to repair the wall next to the door frame how can I make it smooth it’s showing a lot of bummy lines where the door frame was it first it was a larger door frame now it’s smaller how can I make the wall smooth

  • Steve Says:
    June 20th, 2017 at 8:31 am

    I don’t see how this will work, you’re putting a drywall compound over a wood based material that expands and contracts. Even if it didn’t crack and fall out it would separate from the groove and create a visible line. Maybe if you did this then back caulked over top of it with a latex based caulking but then it would stick out like a sore thumb.

  • Charles Popelka Says:
    January 1st, 2017 at 1:39 pm

    I have the same question as Karen, but I don’t see any answer. “Since MH walls are meant to flex with the shifting that occurs over time, will there be a problem with the compound falling out of the grooves?”

  • Josh Gullett Says:
    August 25th, 2015 at 12:48 pm

    I want to replace my countertops in my kitchen, however I don’t have the money to do so. Do you think this process will work for filling in the grout gaps between the tile on my countertops? Then I can pour cement on top.

  • Karen Says:
    August 17th, 2013 at 12:01 pm

    I am wanting to achieve a similar finish to walls in my newly purchased Mobile Home. Since MH walls are ment to flex with the shifting that occurs over time, will there be a problem with the compound falling out of the grooves?

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How to Fill Grooves in Paneling Before Painting