How to Replace Damaged Eave Fascia Boards
The eaves on a house are enclosed with a vertical fascia board to cover the end of the roof rafters or ceiling joists, and horizontal soffit boards to cover the bottom of the roofs rafters or joists.
Due to their exposure to the elements, fascia boards can rot over time. They are also a favorite target for squirrels.
How to Replace a Fascia Board:
- Remove Damaged Fascia Board: Use a flat pry bar to remove the damaged fascia board. If the board is covered by guttering, you will need to carefully remove the gutter first.
- Match Fascia Board: Buy a new board that matches the old fascia board in both thickness and width. In addition to wood, you can also replace damaged fascia boards with Cellular PVC or fiber cement material.
- Cut New Fascia Board: Using the damaged fascia board as a pattern, cut the new fascia board to match. Join two fascia boards together over a rafter or joist at a 45° angle by setting your circular saw to 45 degrees, then cutting square across the width of the board.
- Attach New Fascia Board: Trial fit the new fascia board in place, and attach it with 8-penny galvanized or stainless steel finishing nails.
- Caulk and Paint New Fascia Board: Caulk any joints or seams in the new fascia board and fill nail holes. After the caulking has set, prime and paint the new board.
Watch this video to find out more.
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Danny Lipford: Even though it doesn’t serve a structural purpose, a rotten fascia board can be unattractive and allow moisture to damage the framing behind it.
In order to completely pry the damaged piece loose, you may have to lift up the metal eave strip just above it. Remove the damaged board all the way to the nearest seam. The new material should match the old in thickness and width, whether it is wood or composite material.
A piece of fascia at the end of the roof slope may include some odd angles. In these cases use the old piece as a template to cut the new one. When joining fascia along a straight run, the ends of the boards should always be cut with opposing 45-degree angles to overlap each other.
When the fit is right, attach the new material with long, galvanized or stainless steel finish nails. Then, after some caulk and putty, it’s ready for paint.
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