Whether from moving furniture, taking down an old picture, or over-exuberant children, little holes in drywall are an inevitable part of owning a home. Spackle is a cheap, easy-to-use filler perfect for patching up small holes in the drywall. I’ve patched up plenty of them on the job and around my house, so let me give you the rundown on how to do it.

    Note that spackle is for small holes. If you have a large hole to patch, you may need to try another method.



    Preparing the Hole

    It’s important to properly prepare the area before applying spackle. Like most projects, good preparation produces the best results.

    The first step to patching things up is to clean out the hole. Use a utility knife to cut away any loose or dangling bits. If the hole has ragged edges, use the knife to trim them down so you’re left with clean edges around the hole. They don’t have to be straight. You just want the spackle to have nice, clean surfaces to adhere to.

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    Probing around with your finger, screwdriver, etc., is also good practice. Sometimes, bits of drywall are broken but look intact because they’re held in place by the paint or drywall paper. 


    Applying the Spackling

    Next, grab a drywall knife or putty knife and apply the spackling. There are some important things to keep in mind when applying the spackle.

    First, you’re not trying to “pack” the hole. Unless the hole is on a stud, there’s nothing solid behind it — it’s just a big cavity and maybe some insulation. Rather, you want to create a spackle “plug” for the hole, which is why spackle is more rubbery and elastic than something like joint compound or plaster. Don’t be skimpy with the spackle — you just don’t need to apply and press multiple dollops of spackle into the hole. 

    Once you’ve applied the spackle, smooth over it with your knife and feather the edge into the surrounding drywall as best you can. Next, depending on humidity and temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours. If in doubt, refer to the instructions on the back of the spackle. 

    When it’s dry, sand the patch smooth using 150-grit sandpaper. If you have a textured wall, your project may require some extra steps.

    Spackle shouldn’t contract as it dries, but if it does and leaves a hole or depression, just apply more spackle and repeat the process. Once you’re happy with it, apply paint.


    Tips for a Professional Finish

    Here are a couple of pro tips for a good result:

    • Use a bright work light and move it around to check for dips or bumps.
    • For larger holes, avoid applying spackle too thickly. Multiple thin coats are better.
    • Be patient and allow full drying time between steps to prevent cracks.
    • Use high-quality spackling and a proper drywall knife. A 3-inch, rigid-blade drywall knife is ideal for small holes in drywall

    So, Is Patching Drywall with Spackling Difficult?

    Not at all. Even bad technique can still give a good result with proper preparation and patience. As long as the hole is thoroughly plugged and dries properly, you’re golden. Any uneven application or poorly feathered edges can be solved with a bit of sanding. Just prime and paint the patch afterward, and you’ll likely never know it was there. 


    FAQs About Patching Holes in Drywall

    What tools do I need to patch drywall holes?

    You will need a utility knife, putty or drywall knife, sandpaper, spackle, and brushes for touch-up painting.


    How long does spackle take to dry?

    Spackle dries anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on thickness, temperature, and humidity. Allow each coat to fully cure before sanding or adding more spackle.


    How many coats of spackle are needed?

    It depends on the hole. Generally speaking, because spackle is for small holes, you should only need one coat, but certain situations could require two or three coats.


    What is the best spackle to use?

    The common types of spackle are standard, lightweight, vinyl, acrylic, and epoxy. There’s also sprayable spackle. Each type has its pros and cons. In my professional opinion, standard and lightweight are the best for DIY small-hole repair.


    Editorial Contributors
    avatar for Doug Sluga

    Doug Sluga

    Doug Sluga is a professional roofer and carpenter with ten years of experience in residential and commercial construction. His expertise spans the breadth of the roofing trade from minor repairs to laying shingles to framing trusses. These days he spends most of his time writing about roofing and the roofing industry.

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    Casey Daniel

    Casey Daniel is a writer and editor with a passion for empowering readers to improve their homes and their lives. She has written and reviewed content across multiple topics, including home improvement, lawn and garden care, sustainability, and health and wellness. When she’s not reviewing articles, Casey is usually playing board games, repainting her bathroom, or quilting.

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